“Nín hǎo” – hello – is the greeting that welcomes us at Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport (TPE). Our guide meets us with a Bestway welcome sign, and on the drive to our hotel we get a first look at Taipei, a capital of more than 2.6 million people. Hotel check-in starts at 3:00 PM. The balance of the day is free to rest after the journey or explore independently. Taipei is well known for traditional Taiwanese spa and massage treatments, a good way to recover from a long flight (at our own expense).

Overnight: Taipei Cozzi Hotel, Taipei (3 nights)

Taipei blends a modern skyline with Japanese colonial-era lanes, busy shopping streets, and one of Asia’s best street-food scenes. We begin in Jiufen, a former gold-mining town on the hills above the sea, where red lanterns hang along its narrow Old Street. At Shifen, we see the waterfall and the town’s famous sky lanterns, and sample Taiwanese snacks. At Yehliu Geopark, wind and waves have carved the coastline into unusual rock forms, including the Queen’s Head and the Fairy’s Shoe.

Back in the city, we walk the 25-hectare gardens of the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall. At the National Palace Museum, we view part of a collection of nearly 700,000 objects from China’s imperial past. We stop for photographs at The Grand Hotel, built in Chinese classical style, and visit Xingtian Temple, with its dragon-carved roof. We end the day at a night market, strolling among the stalls and local people. (B, Sn)

We take a walking tour of Dihua Street, one of Taipei’s oldest trading streets. Its century-old shop buildings show a blend of European, Japanese, and Chinese styles, a reminder of the island’s layered past – from the Portuguese sailors who named it Formosa in the 16th century to 50 years of Japanese rule from 1895 to 1945. We then ride the Maokong Gondola for views over the tea plantations. Later, we visit Taipei 101, the 508-metre tower that was the world’s tallest building from 2004 until 2010, for a panoramic view of the city. The evening is free. We may choose to visit the wharf for the sunset and dinner at our own expense. (B)

After breakfast, we drive south to Sun Moon Lake, in the mountains of central Taiwan. The lake takes its name from its shape: the eastern part is round like the sun, and the western part is curved like a new moon, with Lalu Island between them. We visit the best-known sites around the lake: the Thao village of Ita Thao, Lalu Island, Xuanzang Temple, Ci’en Pagoda and Wenwu Temple. The forests along the lakeshore roads are good for birdwatching, with species such as the Grey-cheeked Fulvetta, Taiwan Yuhina, Grey Treepie, Bamboo Partridge, Chinese Bulbul, Taiwan Barbet and Black Bulbul. Binoculars are recommended.

Overnight: Sun Moon Lake Lea Garden Hotel, Sun Moon Lake (1 night) (B)

Today, we drive into the Alishan Mountain Range to the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area in Alishan Township, Chiayi, Taiwan’s best-known forest reserve. Covering 1,400 hectares, with its main area about 2,200 metres above sea level, it is known for its giant ancient trees and, in the right season, sunrise views, a sea of clouds and cherry blossoms. The cool mountain climate averages about 10.6°C through the year. We explore the forest on its walking trails before driving on to Chiayi City for the night.

Overnight: Orient Luxury Hotel, Chiayi City (1 night) (B)

After breakfast, we visit Hinoki Village in Chiayi City, where 28 wooden houses built of Hinoki cypress once housed forestry workers during the Japanese era. Hinoki cypress was then one of Taiwan’s major exports.

In Changhua County, we walk Lukang Old Street, where curved, red-tiled lanes are lined with restored shopfronts, and visit the 19th-century home of one of Taiwan’s wealthiest families to see how they lived and entertained guests. We continue to the Gaomei Wetlands near Taichung, a tidal flat of about 600 hectares established in 2005 and known for its wildlife, boardwalk and sunsets. In the afternoon, we visit the Sanyi Wood Sculpture Museum to learn about Taiwan’s woodcarving tradition, and paint our own wooden duck at the Sanyi Duck Factory. We also visit a Mazu temple, one of the most important places of worship in Taiwan, before driving on to Taipei.

Overnight: Taipei Cozzi Hotel, Taipei (1 night) (B)

Hotel check-out is at 10:00 AM. At the appointed time, we transfer to Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport for our onward flight. Taiwan combines well with Japan, or with Malaysian Borneo, home to orangutans and Asian elephants. Please contact Bestway Tours & Safaris to add an extension. (B)